Slouchy Ribbed Hat Pattern – 2 Sizes

Slouchy Ribbed Hat (or not so slouchy if you like) Crochet Pattern

**Please don’t pay attention to the colourways in the photos – I was just using random colours left in my stash – if you want a nice uniform stripe, then I’ve reminded you every second round to change colour**

 

You will need:
 
4 colours of yarn (I used Stylecraft Double Knitting)
2 crochet hooks – 5.00mm and 4.00mm
Yarn needle
Scissors
Stitch marker (if required)
Stitches Used (UK Terms)
 
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (ss)
Double Crochet (dc)
Treble Crochet (tr)
Front Post Treble Crochet (FPtr) – this stitch is not as complicated as it sounds, I will include a description of the stitch, plus photos to explain further how it works.
 
This pattern is worked in the round and has a steady increase as you work your way down the hat – depending on how slouchy you want the hat to be, you will need to decide how many extra rows in the initial stages you would like to include.
Pattern (Toddler size – age 2 – 4 approximately)
 
This photo shows a 3 year old wearing it
 
 
Using the 5.00mm hook
Make a magic ring and chain 2
Round 1
14 treble crochet (tr) into ring.
Slip stitch (ss) into first treble to join.
Round 2
 
Chain (ch) 1
Front post treble crochet (FPtr) around each treble crochet of previous round.
**To work an FPtr you are ignoring the tops of the trebles, and are working around the POST of the trebles**
 
  1. You need to wrap your yarn over the hook (the first part of working a treble)
  2. Then insert the hook from the front of your work into the gap to the right hand side of the treble you are working around (1st treble from round 1 in this instance )and then out of the the left hand side of the treble.  So your hook is effectively sat behind the treble.
  3. Wrap the yarn over the hook again, and pull your hook back through from behind the stitch (the yarn will now be going under the stitch).
  4. And complete the treble in the normal way by wrapping the yarn around the hook, pull through the 1st 2 loops, yarn over again and pull through the last 2 loops.
You need to insert your hook through this part here (where my needle is)
 


Your stitches should look like this

At the end of this round you should have 14 FPtr
Slip stitch into the first FPtr to join the round.
Round 3
Ch 1
Work 1 FPtr around the first FPtr. (see where my needle is?)
 


Then work 1 treble into the space between the FPtr (where my needle is pointing)
 

Then work another FPtr around the FPtr
And again another treble in between the FPtr.
Your work should look like this, with one final treble to work, before joining the round.  You can see the ribbing starting to form.
 

So continue the pattern like this…FPtr, tr, FPtr, tr…until you get back to the beginning and slip stitch into the first stitch to join the round. (If you are doing a stripy hat, then I would recommend your first colour change here, before you start round 4.  I find the best way to change colour is to use your new yarn to slip stitch when you join the round, and then the join is seamless –  I also tie the tail ends together for extra security, before weaving in the ends)
At the end of this round you should have 14 FPtr and 14 tr
Round 4
Ch 1
Work the same as round 3 – FPtr, tr, FPtr, tr…until you reach the end. 
Slip stitch to join.
Round 5
Ch1
Work the same as round 3 – FPtr, tr, FPtr, tr…until you reach the end.
Slip stitch to join (with new colour)
 
 
***you can add more duplicate rounds like this if you want your hat to be more slouchy***
 
Round 6
 
We are going to increase this round by adding an extra treble in each section, so…
 
Ch1, FPtr
Then you need to work 1 treble in the space before the treble of the last round and 1 treble in the space afterwards.  As you can see in the photos, I have shown you where I have worked the trebles, and then the next two photos I’ve shown you with my needle where you need to be putting the trebles.


Then work another FPtr.
So the pattern goes like this…
FPtr, tr, tr, FPtr, tr, tr, FPtr, tr, tr…until you reach the end.
Slip stitch to join.
(you should have 14 FPtr and 28 tr at the end of this round)
Round 7
Ch 1, FPtr,
Then work 2 trebles in between the 2 tr of the previous round.
 



 
Then another FPtr, and 2 trebles between the 2 tr of the previous round.
Continue like this to the end.
Slip stitch with new colour to join the round
Round 8
We are going to increase this round by adding 1 treble to each section, so now there will be 3 trebles in between the FPtr.
Ch 1, FPtr, work 3 tr between the 2 trebles from the previous round (so this is basically the same as round 7 but you are working 3 trebles instead of 2)
FPtr, 3 tr, FPtr, 3 tr….continue to the end of the round.
Slip stitch to join
(14 FPtr and 42 tr)
Round 9
Ch 1, FPtr, work 2 tr into space between 1st 2 trebles, and 1 tr into next space between trebles.
Here you can see I have already worked the first 2 trebles, and my needle is showing you where you put the single treble.
 


 
FPtr, 2 tr, 1 tr, FPtr, 2 tr, 1 tr…continue to the end of the round
Slip stitch new colour to join round.
Round 10
Ch 1, FPtr, work 1 tr into 1st space between trebles, and work 2 tr into next space between trebles.
 


 
FPtr, 1 tr, 2 tr, FPtr, 1 tr, 2 tr…continue to the end of the round.
Slip stitch to join
Round 11
 
Work exactly as round 9 including the colour change
Round 12
Once again we are adding an extra treble into this round, so we will be working 4 trebles between the FPtr, instead of 3.
Ch 1, FPtr, 2 tr in 1st space between trebles, and 2 tr in next space between trebles.
 

FPtr, 2 tr, 2 tr, FPtr, 2 tr, 2tr…continue to the end of the round
Slip stitch to join.
(14 FPtr and 56 tr)
Round 13
Ch 1, FPtr, work 2 tr in between 1st two trebles, and work 2 tr in between last 2 trebles.
 

FPtr, 2 tr, 2 tr, FPtr, 2 tr, 2 tr…continue to the end of the round
Slip stitch to join with new colour
Rounds 14 – 20
Work as round 13, changing colour at the end of rounds 15 and 17.
Round 21
Change hook to 4.00mm
Ch 1, work 1 double crochet into each stitch around.
Slip stitch to first stitch to join.
Round 22
Ch 1, work 1 treble crochet into each stitch around.
Here you can see my row of double crochet and then treble crochet.
 

Slip stitch to join round with new colour.
Round 23
Ch 1, FPtr, work 1 tr into top of next stitch, FPtr, work 1 tr into top of next stitch, Fptr, work 1 tr into top of next stitch…continue all the way around.
 

Slip stitch to join with new colour.
Round 24
Ch 1, FPtr, 1 tr, FPtr, 1 tr, FPtr, 1 tr….continue all the way around.
Slip stitch to join round.
Round 25
Repeat round 24.
Fasten off…weave in ends…attach pompom if required.
Pattern For Older Kids and Adults
This photo shows my 10 year old wearing it, but it also fits me!
The pattern for a larger hat is much the same as that above, but you are starting with 15 treble crochet in the ring, and you are adding extra rounds to create more of a slouch.  I haven’t included any instructions for when to change colour – it’s up to you when you change but I would recommend changing every 2 or 3 rows to give a nice chunky stripe effect.
 
Using hook 5.00mm
 
Magic Ring
Chain 2
Round 1
 
Ch 1
15 treble crochet into ring
Slip Stitch into 1st stitch to join.
 
Round 2
 
Ch 1
15 FRtr
SS to join
Round 3 – 6
 
Ch 1
FPtr, tr, Fptr, tr – repeat all the way around
SS to join
Round 7
 
Ch 1
FPtr, tr, tr, FPtr, tr, tr…repeat all the way around
SS to join
Round 8 – 9
 
Ch 1
FPtr, 2 tr into space between trebles of previous round, FPtr, 2tr…repeat all the way around
SS to join
Round 10
 
Ch 1
FPtr, 3 tr, FPtr, 3 tr…repeat all the way around
SS to join
Round 11
 
Ch 1
FPtr, 2 tr into 1st space in trebles, 1 tr into 2nd space in trebles, FPtr…repeat all the way around
SS to join
Round 12
 
Ch 1
FPtr, 1 tr, 2tr, FPtr, 1 tr, 2 tr…repeat all the way around.
SS to join
Round 13
 
Repeat Round 11
Round 14
 
Repeat Round 12
Round 15
 
Repeat Round 11
Round 16
 
Repeat Round 12
Round 17 – 26
 
Ch 1
FPtr, 2 tr in between 1st 2 trebles, 2 tr in between 2nd 2 trebles, FPtr, 2tr, 2tr…repeat all the way around
SS to join
Round 27 – CHANGE HOOK TO 4.00MM
 
Ch 1
1 dc into each stitch around
SS to joint
 
Round 28
 
Ch 1
1 tr all the way around
SS to join
 
Round 29 – 33
 
FPtr, 1 tr into top of next stitch, FPtr, 1 tr into top of next stitch…repeat all the way around.
 
Fasten off, weave in ends – attach pompom if required.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Winter Hats

I have just added two adult winter hats to my Etsy Shop, they can be found here:

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/570525241/adult-winter-hat

 

 

I think you’ll agree they look fabulous.  The pattern worked up really quickly – it’s called the shell pattern I think!  I found a wonderful tutorial on YouTube.  The pom pom was not included in the pattern, but what’s a hat without a pom pom?!

 

Spiral Bauble Pattern Tutorial

Spiral Crochet Bauble

Apologies in advance for the poor quality photos – they were taken on my phone, and I really wish I’d taken more time and used my camera.  Anyway, hindsight is a wonderful thing!

I’ve uploaded this as a free downloadable PDF pattern on Ravelry, but I thought I may as well add it on here too.

For this decoration you will need:

Small Christmas bauble (20cm circumference)

3.5mm crochet hook

Stitch marker

2 colours of yarn

Needle

UK Stitches used: chain, slip stitch, double crochet.

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds, and can be quite complex especially in the beginning; round 3 is quite mind-boggling. But once you get past that, everything falls into place.

Please be aware that you will be using two different colours of yarn and keeping them both attached until the end, so this can become quite fiddly, but it is possible to continue with the work without getting your yarns tangled. The colours I used were blue and pink; blue formed the main bulk of the bauble and the pink made up the spirals. It is also imperative that you use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round because you really need to know where you are at all times.

So let’s begin:

Blue yarn Chain 4, slip stitch into 1st chain to form a ring. Chain 1.

Round 1

10 dc into ring (don’t forget to place stitch marker in first dc)

Round 2

In this round you will be working 2dc into every stitch, so at the end you should have 20dc. However, it won’t be as simple as it sounds because we will be adding your second colour at various points along the way.

So the pattern goes like this:

2dc (blue,pink) 2dc (blue,blue) 2dc (blue,blue) 2dc (pink,blue) 2dc (blue,blue) 2dc (blue,pink) 2dc (blue,blue) 2dc (blue,blue) 2dc (pink,blue) 2dc (blue,blue)

The 4 pink stitches that you have added form the base of each spiral. When we move into round 3, this is when we start to develop the spirals.

Round 3

This round is a real stinker, it took me several attempts to get it right first time, it’s pretty confusing, but if you just follow the pattern you should get it spot on. Things only get easier after this.

For this round, you are crocheting 2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc alternatively into each stitch around and you should have 30dc at the end.

However, again, we are adding pink into the mix, and it feels random, but I promise you it’s not.

So the pattern goes like this (I’ve written it as a list so it’s a bit easier to follow):

2dc (blue blue)

1dc blue

2dc (pink pink)

1dc blue

2dc (blue blue)

1dc blue

2dc (blue blue)

1dc pink

2dc (pink blue)

1dc blue

2dc (blue blue)

1dc blue

2dc (pink pink)

1dc blue

2dc (blue blue)

1dc blue

2dc (blue blue)

1dc pink

2dc (pink blue)

1dc blue

Round 4

Now the rounds are easier because you are just working 1dc into each stitch around. So this round goes like this:

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc

Round 5

The sequence will change with each round, this is to form the spiral pattern but if you watch how it is worked, it’s not as confusing as the pattern looks.

So this round goes as follows:

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Round 6

Blue 1dc x6

Pink 1dc x3

Blue 1dc x5

Pink 1dc X3

Blue 1dc x4

Pink 1dc X3

Blue 1dc x5

Pink 1dc

You should notice that your work is starting to curve now, into the beginnings of a bowl type shape, this is good, as it means it will fit nicely over the ball.

Round 7

Pink 1dc x2

Blue 1dc x5

Pink 1dc X3

Blue 1dc x5

Pink 1dc X3

Blue 1dc x4

Pink 1dc X3

Blue 1dc x5

Round 8

Pink 1dc x3

Blue 1dc x5

Pink 1dc x4

Blue 1dc x4

Pink 1dc x4

Blue 1dc x 3

Pink 1dc x4

Blue 1dc x3

Round 9

Blue 1dc

Pink 1dc x4

Blue 1dc x4

Pink 1dc x5

Blue 1dc X3

Pink 1dc x5

Blue 1dc x2

Pink 1dc x5

Blue 1dc

Round 10

Blue 1dc x2

Pink 1dc x5

Blue 1dc X3

Pink 1dc x6

Blue 1dc x2

Pink 1dc x6

Blue 1dc

Pink 1dc x5

Round 11

Pink 1dc x30

Slip stitch into first stitch and fasten off yarn, sew in ends. Repeat for other half of bauble, leaving a long tail for sewing the two halves together.

You should end up with something like this.