Spiral Bauble Pattern Tutorial

Spiral Crochet Bauble

Apologies in advance for the poor quality photos – they were taken on my phone, and I really wish I’d taken more time and used my camera.  Anyway, hindsight is a wonderful thing!

I’ve uploaded this as a free downloadable PDF pattern on Ravelry, but I thought I may as well add it on here too.

For this decoration you will need:

Small Christmas bauble (20cm circumference)

3.5mm crochet hook

Stitch marker

2 colours of yarn

Needle

UK Stitches used: chain, slip stitch, double crochet.

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds, and can be quite complex especially in the beginning; round 3 is quite mind-boggling. But once you get past that, everything falls into place.

Please be aware that you will be using two different colours of yarn and keeping them both attached until the end, so this can become quite fiddly, but it is possible to continue with the work without getting your yarns tangled. The colours I used were blue and pink; blue formed the main bulk of the bauble and the pink made up the spirals. It is also imperative that you use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round because you really need to know where you are at all times.

So let’s begin:

Blue yarn Chain 4, slip stitch into 1st chain to form a ring. Chain 1.

Round 1

10 dc into ring (don’t forget to place stitch marker in first dc)

Round 2

In this round you will be working 2dc into every stitch, so at the end you should have 20dc. However, it won’t be as simple as it sounds because we will be adding your second colour at various points along the way.

So the pattern goes like this:

2dc (blue,pink) 2dc (blue,blue) 2dc (blue,blue) 2dc (pink,blue) 2dc (blue,blue) 2dc (blue,pink) 2dc (blue,blue) 2dc (blue,blue) 2dc (pink,blue) 2dc (blue,blue)

The 4 pink stitches that you have added form the base of each spiral. When we move into round 3, this is when we start to develop the spirals.

Round 3

This round is a real stinker, it took me several attempts to get it right first time, it’s pretty confusing, but if you just follow the pattern you should get it spot on. Things only get easier after this.

For this round, you are crocheting 2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc alternatively into each stitch around and you should have 30dc at the end.

However, again, we are adding pink into the mix, and it feels random, but I promise you it’s not.

So the pattern goes like this (I’ve written it as a list so it’s a bit easier to follow):

2dc (blue blue)

1dc blue

2dc (pink pink)

1dc blue

2dc (blue blue)

1dc blue

2dc (blue blue)

1dc pink

2dc (pink blue)

1dc blue

2dc (blue blue)

1dc blue

2dc (pink pink)

1dc blue

2dc (blue blue)

1dc blue

2dc (blue blue)

1dc pink

2dc (pink blue)

1dc blue

Round 4

Now the rounds are easier because you are just working 1dc into each stitch around. So this round goes like this:

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc

Round 5

The sequence will change with each round, this is to form the spiral pattern but if you watch how it is worked, it’s not as confusing as the pattern looks.

So this round goes as follows:

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Round 6

Blue 1dc x6

Pink 1dc x3

Blue 1dc x5

Pink 1dc X3

Blue 1dc x4

Pink 1dc X3

Blue 1dc x5

Pink 1dc

You should notice that your work is starting to curve now, into the beginnings of a bowl type shape, this is good, as it means it will fit nicely over the ball.

Round 7

Pink 1dc x2

Blue 1dc x5

Pink 1dc X3

Blue 1dc x5

Pink 1dc X3

Blue 1dc x4

Pink 1dc X3

Blue 1dc x5

Round 8

Pink 1dc x3

Blue 1dc x5

Pink 1dc x4

Blue 1dc x4

Pink 1dc x4

Blue 1dc x 3

Pink 1dc x4

Blue 1dc x3

Round 9

Blue 1dc

Pink 1dc x4

Blue 1dc x4

Pink 1dc x5

Blue 1dc X3

Pink 1dc x5

Blue 1dc x2

Pink 1dc x5

Blue 1dc

Round 10

Blue 1dc x2

Pink 1dc x5

Blue 1dc X3

Pink 1dc x6

Blue 1dc x2

Pink 1dc x6

Blue 1dc

Pink 1dc x5

Round 11

Pink 1dc x30

Slip stitch into first stitch and fasten off yarn, sew in ends. Repeat for other half of bauble, leaving a long tail for sewing the two halves together.

You should end up with something like this.

Crochet Bauble Madness

I’ve been busy crocheting Christmas baubles for my Etsy shop…here is a selection

 

I’ve also been attempting to write some patterns.  There is currently one for sale for just 60p on Ravelry which you can find here:

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/three-colour-star-bauble

It’s a PDF file with photos and detailed instructions, to make a very nice three coloured star decoration, very much like this one in the middle here:

And these:

My latest creation has a spiral affect and it actually gave me a headache trying to figure out the pattern, but I am on with writing it up now – it is actually really simple once you get your head around the dreadful Round 3, and looks really effective.  I’m going to try more colour combinations, once my head has cleared.

Anyway, that’s all for today.  Happy crocheting everyone!

 

Crochet Star Bauble Decoration – Pattern and Tutorial

**PLEASE NOTE THIS IS IN UK CROCHET TERMS**

 

I’ve just made myself a really pretty little star bauble, so wanted to share the pattern and tutorial.

 

For this decoration I used a DK yarn and a 3.00mm crochet hook.  But you can use any yarn and any size hook you like – it just depends on what size you want to end up with.

You will need two colours of yarn, and a stitch marker (very important!)

The stitches I used were double crochet and they are worked in a continuous round, 11 rounds in total.

The work is crocheted around a 20cm (circumference) existing Christmas Bauble.

Please note, once you are onto using both yarns – please untangle after each round, otherwise you will end up in a complete tangled mess!

Tutorial

Blue yarn

Chain 4

Slip Stitch into first chain to form a ring.

Round 1

Chain 1, 10dc into ring.

Here you can see I’ve done a couple of double crochets into the ring (where my needle is pointing) and I’ve also used a stitch marker to mark my very first stitch – this is very important so you don’t lose your way or do too many stitches in each round.

This shows I have done 10 dc into the ring and now I am up to my stitch marker, ready for the next round.  So remove the marker to start round 2.

Round 2

You need to work 2 double crochet into each stitch of round 1. Below you can see I have worked a couple of double crochets into the first stitch, and I have replaced my stitch marker.

At the end of the round you should have 20 double crochets – please count to make sure. It should look something like this.

Now you are ready to start round 3.

Round 3

Remove your stitch marker and crochet 2 double crochets into the first stitch.

Replace your stitch marker, and crochet 1 double crochet into the next stitch, then 2 double crochet into the next stitch, and 1 double crochet into the next stitch.  Carry on like this until you are back to your stitch marker.

You should have 30 double crochet – count to make sure!

The next round involves adding your next colour, so it could get complicated – but it really is quite simple, as long as you don’t get your yarn tangled.

Round 4

You are now going to add in the pink yarn (DO NOT fasten off your blue yarn)

Pull through a loop of the pink yarn and work 1dc into the first stitch.

Replace stitch marker.

Then back to your blue yarn, work 1dc into the next 5 stitches.

If you think about it, the complete round is a total of 30 double crochet – and I have split it into 5 blocks of 6. So you are working 1 pink and 5 blue double crochets, in 5 sections, and this is the beginning of creating the points of the star.

So the pattern should look something like this

Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc, Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc, Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc, Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc, Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc.

Don’t forget your stitch marker!

Round 5

If you find your yarn starts to tangle at the end of each round, please make sure you untangle it as you go along, otherwise you will get yourself into a right pickle.

So this round, we are increasing the pink by 1 stitch, and decreasing the blue by one stitch.

So you need to work 2 pink double crochets, and 4 blue double crochets – and repeat this pattern 5 times.

(Pink 1dc 1dc, Blue 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc) (repeat 5 times)

Stitch marker!

Round 6

Work 3 pink double crochets and 3 blue double crochets.

(Pink 1dc 1dc 1dc, Blue 1dc 1dc 1dc) (repeat 5 times)

You can now see the shape of the star starting to form.

Remember to untangle your yarn, and remember to replace your stitch marker.

Each round should still have 30 double crochet.

Round 7

Work 4 pink double crochet and 2 blue double crochets – repeat 5 times.

Round 8

Work 5 pink double crochet and 1 blue double crochet (repeat 5 times)

Round 9 – 11

You have now finished your star shape and can fasten off the blue (at last – no more tangles!)

Now you just need to crochet 3 rounds of double crochet.  So basically, 1 double crochet into each stitch for the next 3 rounds.

Slip stitch to first stitch of last round – fasten off both yarns and weave in ends.

The inside of your work will probably look like this, but that’s okay because nobody sees the inside.

 

Repeat for the other half of the bauble, leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Here are my two halves waiting to go onto the bauble.

If it looks like they are a bit small, don’t worry, crochet can stretch and this will ensure it has a nice snug fit around the bauble.

So take your needle and just run a stitch through the top loops of the work and it will make a nice neat join.

Once you get all the way around, ensure you over stitch a little bit and weave the end in so that it is secure.

 

And there you are, your finished star bauble.

 

Pattern.

Blue Yarn

Chain 4.

Join with a slip stitch to form a ring

Round 1

Ch1, 10dc into ring

Round 2

2dc into each stitch around (20dc)

Round 3

2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc (repeat) (30dc)

Round 4

Join pink yarn (do not fasten off blue yarn)

Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc.

Round 5

Pink 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc,Pink 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc.

Round 6

Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc.

Round 7

Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc.

Round 8

Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc,  Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc.

Fasten off blue yarn.

Rounds 9 – 11

Pink 1dc 30 times.

Fasten off pink, sew in ends.

Repeat for other half, leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Sew over bauble.

Here is a link to a pattern of the more complex version of this decoration, available to buy on Ravelry for just 60p

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/three-colour-star-bauble

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Sparkly Yarn

I’m just testing my updating post skills really, and I’m wondering where this post will end up. So here goes…

I was in my local Aldi yesterday and they must be having a craft extravaganza because they had all different types of yarn, craft boxes, fat quarter packs – I could have bought all of it.  However, the thing that really did catch my eye was this:

Some sparkly yarn!   And because I am trying to stock my new Etsy shop with Christmas things I couldn’t resist.  Priced at £2.99 per pack (there’s actually four in a pack not three – I’ve already used a couple of balls to create some sparkly baubles).

See –

I was worried that the sparkly bits running through the yarn would make it difficult to work with, but in fact it made no difference at all.  The only issue I had was when I was sewing in the ends, my needle sometimes caught a loose thread.

Anyway, get yourselves down to Aldi for some fancy yarn.

 

Easy Crochet Bauble Tutorial

**PLEASE NOTE THIS IS IN UK CROCHET TERMS**

 

I’m hoping this tutorial (with lots of pictures) will help some of you novice crochets out there.  I wanted to make baubles for a long time but just could not get the increase right, or the shape right, or in fact anything right!  And it took me a while to become confident in creating the perfect crochet bauble, but I think I have it now!

The tutorial below is not for the simplest one I have made, but I think it’s my favourite (so far) there is an easier variation which I will attempt to add in at the end.  You should end up with something like this:

First of all you need to select your yarn, colours, and hook size.

For baubles I prefer to use colours that contrast with each other because I think it gives them a more eye catching look, but you might prefer to use ones than harmonise with each other – its entirely up to you.  But it is best to use colours from the same type of yarn, otherwise it won’t work up properly.

Here I have used a cotton yarn called Drops Muskat, which I think is a bit thicker than DK (double knitting) and a lot harder to work with – I recommend using something soft like acrylic yarn, especially if you are just starting out.  Otherwise, a softer cotton yarn will do the trick – I think cotton yarns do look better on the finished product.  Anyway – it’s up to you what kind of yarn you use.

I have also chosen to use a 3.5 hook because this will keep the stitches nice and tight.

One more thing to point out before I start – when I first started making crochet baubles I was just making them any size and hoping for the best, then using polyester stuffing to fill them with.  And they do look lovely.  However, since I have become more talented in this area, I have been crocheted them to fit around an 8cm polyester ball, and the finished look is so much more satisfying!  So this pattern is designed around that kind of size.  I’ve noticed some crocheters design theirs around plastic Christmas baubles – which is also a great idea and a great way to revamp old decorations.  It all depends on how confident you are in achieving a specific size in the finished product.  Stuffing an odd sized crochet bauble with polyester is always an option for those balls that don’t turn out quite the right size.

(Basically a bigger hook and thicker yarn will make a bigger bauble – smaller hook, smaller yarn – smaller bauble)

Anyway, I digress…

 

And now for the pattern. (I will tag on the end of all this just the actual pattern for those of us who don’t need all these photos!)

 

Stitches used:

Slip stitch

Chain

Double Crochet

Treble Crochet

Spike Stitch (Basically a long double crochet).

 

First of all you need to make a slip not on your hook, as pictured here:

And then a starting chain of 4.

Then, you need to join with a slip stitch into the first chain (where my needle is on the photo).  This will form a ring into which you will be crocheting your first round of stitches.

First you need to chain 2 (or chain 3 depending on how you will join your round – if you join your round at the end with a slip stitch into the top of your starting chain then you will probably need 3 chains – however I have discovered a new joining method which is a lot neater).  This chain counts as your first stitch.

Now it is time to start your round – you will need to crochet 11 trebles into the centre of the ring – and this will mean you have 12 stitches including your starting chain.

As you can see here I have done one treble into the middle of the ring I made with the initial 4 chain.  Each stitch in this round needs to be crocheted into the same place.  It can be quite fiddly at first – but it only gets easier from here.

The ring is starting to take shape.

Now I have done 11 trebles into the ring and it is time to join the round to form the first circle.  A lot of tutorials tell you to join the round by slip stitching into the top of your starting chain, (and you are welcome to do this here if that’s what you are comfortable with).  However I have always thought this looked messy and will now show you a much neater way to do it.

First you have to cut your yarn (leaving enough tail for sewing in) and then pull the yarn through the stitch – as I have started to do above.  And then, thread your needle and insert your needle through the FIRST treble of the round (NOT THE CHAIN) – like this.

and pull it through gently

and then, thread your needle through the middle of your very last treble like this

Gently pull it through and you can see below it is already forming the shape of the top of a stitch.  Now keep pulling until the loop is the same size as all of your other stitches – be careful not to let your starting chain poke up through the middle.  Sometimes you might need to waggle the whole thing around a bit to get it to sit properly.

Then you can thread your needle through the back of a few stitches to secure the yarn in place, like this.  I also like to sew in the other loose end too, so there will be no need to go back to it at the end.

And there you have it – a complete first round – if you have made it this far, well done!

Time for round 2!

Choose your next colour.  I have chosen yellow – a nice contrast to the pink.

When I join a new yarn, I like to start with a slip stitch on the hook – just to add a bit of extra security.

Now you need to join your yarn to any space IN BETWEEN trebles – like this.  Chain 2 (or 3 depending on your joining preference at the end of the round)

Then crochet another treble into the SAME SPACE.  This is where we are increasing the round by 2 stitches to each stitch from the first round – so where the first round had a total of 12 stitches – this second round should end up with 24 stitches.  So you need to crochet 2 trebles into each space between stitches – as you can see here, and continue until you have 24 trebles (including the initial starting chain)

And I will show you again how I like to join the round.  Cut your yarn, pull through stitch.

Thread your needle, insert needle through top of first treble.

and back through the top of your final treble

bring the needle through the back of a few stitches to secure the yarn in place.

Your join should look like this.

Finished round 2 – well done!

Round 3

Select your next colour and join between two clusters of trebles

Chain 2 (again or you can chain 3 depending on how you join the end of the round) Then you will need to crochet 2 trebles into the same space – and this will form a cluster of 3 stitches.  Then work 3 trebles into each space around – resulting in 36 stitches in the complete round.

Join the round as you prefer, fasten off yarn and sew in ends.

Round 4

Join new yarn to any space between clusters.

Chain 2 (or chain3)

Crochet 2 trebles into same space.

Then crochet 3 trebles into each space around (36 stitches in total).

 

As you can see, my work is starting to curve, which is exactly what we want as it will fit the shape of the ball easily.

Join, fasten off, weave in ends.

Round 5.

This round is a little different to the rest.  This one involves crocheting your stitches into the stitch rather than in between them.  Here I have inserted my needle where you need to be inserting your hook and this is where the first stitch needs to be.

So, join your yarn and chain 2.

1 treble into each stitch around

At the end of the round you should have 36 stitches.  Join the round as I have shown you previously.  Fasten off, weave in ends.

As you can see here the work is really starting to take shape, and don’t worry if it looks too small to fit around your desired ball – the good thing about crochet is that it stretches.

Here is mine sat on top of the ball it will be wrapped around when finished.

Round 6 – 8

The next three rounds will be worked continuously (i.e. no fastening off in between each round)

Select new yarn. Join in any stitch. Chain 1.

Work 1 double crochet into each stitch around.

When you get to the final stitch –  instead of joining…

work 1 double crochet into the chain 1 you did at the beginning.

Then work 1 double crochet into each stitch around.

Keep your eye on your stitches and when you are back at the beginning once again, you should be able to seamlessly carry on and crochet round 8 – another round of double crochets.

When you are nearing the end of the third round of double crochets – you should be able to work out where you are by looking inside your work and finding your initial stitch – can you see on mine where the tail is?

So it is above this stitch where you need to make your final join (either with a slip stitch or how I have shown you previously). Fasten off, weave in ends.

Your bauble should really be starting to take shape now, and should stretch nicely over an 8cm ball.

Round 9.

This probably seems like the most tricky round of the bauble, but it’s really quite simple once you get the hang of it.  This round will consist of double crochet and spike stitches.

So, join your new yarn.

Chain 1

1 double crochet into the next stitch.

Then for the next stitch you will do the spike stitch, which is worked exactly the same as a double crochet stitch, only you put your hook into a space 2 rows below. As you can see in the photo below.

And then you pull the yarn up to the top and continue the stitch as normal.

And then its 1 double crochet into the next stitch.  And where you see my needle is where you need to do the next spike stitch.

And slowly you should see the pattern start to emerge.  Work another double crochet into the next stitch, and where my needle is pointing, is where you put the next spike stitch.

So carry on 1 dc, 1 spike stitch, 1 dc and it should look something like this.

When you are back at the beginning you need to work one last spike stitch, so they are all evenly spaced.

See where my needle is?  This is where the last spike stitch needs to be.

Do not fasten off.

Round 10

Work 1 double crochet into the chain 1 from the beginning, and work 1 double crochet into each stitch around.

 

Finally, when you are back at the beginning join to the first double crochet of the second round.  Fasten off, weave in ends.

And you have now finished one half of your bauble.  Next, do it all again – exactly the same, only this time when it comes to fastening off, make sure you leave a long tail to sew the two sides together.

Here I have put my two halves onto my ball – and as you can see the sides don’t quite meet, but this is nothing to worry about because crochet is quite stretchy and this ensures that when you sew it together you will have a nice snug fit.

When I sew my sides together I use the front loops of the stitches – as you can see where my needle is here.

Thread it through the two front loops on both sides and just keep on doing this all the way round – it should end up quite a neat row of stitches if you keep it tight.

Once you have finished, you need to weave in the tail tightly and fasten off – or alternatively you can use the extra length and turn it into a hanging loop.  However, I prefer to use purpose built metal hooks (or if you are crocheting around an actual bauble, you will already have the hanging gear)

Your finished bauble should look something like this!

Please let me know how you get on with this pattern and if there are any parts which are not clear or just don’t make any sense.

I will now write a basic pattern for those of you who don’t need the step by step photos (and it also has an alternative ending).

Crochet Christmas Bauble Pattern

Chain 4, Slip Stitch into 1st chain to form a loop.

Round 1

Chain 2, 11 treble crochet into ring. (counts as 12 trebles)

Join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Round 2

Join yarn into any space between treble crochets.

Chain 2, 1 treble crochet into same space.

2 treble crochets into each space around. (counts as 24 trebles)

Join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Round 3

Join new yarn into any space between 2 treble crochet clusters.

Chain 2, 2 treble crochets into same space.

3 treble crochets into each space around. (counts as 36 trebles)

Join round, fasten off, weave in ends.

Round 4

Join new yarn into any space between 3 treble crochet clusters.

Chain 2, 2 treble crochets into same space.

3 treble crochets into each space around. (counts as 36 trebles)

Join round, fasten off, weave in ends.

Round 5

Join new yarn into any treble stitch (not between clusters).

Chain 2, 1 treble crochet into each stitch around.

Join round, fasten off, weave in ends.

Round 6 – 8

Join new yarn into any treble crochet stitch.

Chain 1, 1 double crochet into each stitch around – do this for three rounds.

Join, fasten off, weave in ends.

Round 9

Join new yarn into any double crochet stitch.

Chain 1, 1 dc, 1 spike stitch (double crochet into a space 2 rows below) 1 dc, 1 spike stitch. Continue around until you complete the round.

Do not fasten off.

Round 10

1 double crochet into each stitch around.

Join round, fasten off, weave in ends.

Repeat again for the other half but leave a long tail for sewing both halves together.

 

Alternative (Easier) Ending to make this bauble:

Follow the pattern as above up to Round 4

ROUNDS 5 – 7 (repeat round 4)

ROUND 8 – Join new yarn to any stitch (not between clusters) and chain 2.  1 treble crochet into each stitch around.  Join, fasten off.  Repeat for other half. Finished.

 

Thanks for reading, hope it’s helpful.