Crochet Dishcloth Tutorial

DISHCLOTH PATTERN TUTORIAL

This tutorial is for a really simple dishcloth, using a waffle pattern.

You will need:

Cotton yarn (I used King Cole Cottonsoft)
Hook – 3.50mm
Needle
Scissors

Stitches:

Chain (ch)
Treble (tr)
Front Post Treble Crochet (FPtr)

Front Post treble crochet sounds more complicated than it is – you are still working a normal treble crochet, but instead of working it into the top of a stitch, you are working it around the post of a stitch (which makes the post of the stitch you are working around stand out to the front – hence the name).

I have been testing out the finished product in my own kitchen, using the same two cloths on a rotation for over 5 months, and they have not deteriorated or fallen apart despite constant use. They can also go in the washing machine on 40 or 60 degrees and can withstand the hot setting in the tumble dryer too.

You can make the dishcloth any size you like as long as your starting chain is a multiple of 3 plus 2.

I like to start with a chain of 41 (39 + 2)

So…

Chain 41.

Row 1

In 3rd chain from hook work 1 treble crochet (tr) (I work through one loop of the chain rather than both -it’s much easier)

And then work 1 tr into each stitch along. (You should have 39 stitches plus the chain 2 at the beginning).
Ch1, turn.

Row 2

1tr into 1st stitch.


FPtr around the next stitch

So, yarn over and the put your hook behind the stitch, like this:

Then yarn over again and pull your hook back to the front, and finish off the stitch (yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 loops). And it should look like this:

And then you need to work 1 tr into the next 2 stitches, the first stitch might be hiding behind your FPtr, so double check youve got the first one.

Once you’ve done your 2 treble crochets, you need to work another FPtr around the next stitch, and then just repeat the pattern –
1 tr, 1 tr, 1FPtr, 1 tr, 1 tr…

And it should start to look like this – you can see the FPtr standing out:

Carry on working 2 tr in between each FPtr, until you have 2 stitches left, and then work 1 FPtr around the next stitch and then 1 tr into the final stitch.

Chain 1, turn.

Row 3

1tr into first 2 stitches, then FPtr around next two stitches – you should be able to see where the FPtr need to go because these stitches will be more visible than the other ones. Here you can see I’ve worked 1tr, 1tr, then FPtr around the next 2 stitches.

So this row is slightly different to the previous row – you are working FPtr, FPtr, 1tr, FPtr, FPtr, and so on. Repeat this pattern until you have 2 stitches remaining work 1tr into each of those stitches.

Chain 1, turn.

Row 4 – 20 (or however many rows you want to do!)

Repeat rows 2 & 3 until your cloth is the desired size. It’s usually best to end up on a row 2.

Now that the waffle texture is starting to form, you should be able to identify where you need to work the FPtr each time because these stitches are really starting to stand out.

After you have finished row 4, your work should start to look like this, and the back looks slightly different.

At first your work might look a bit wobbly, but as you build up the rows it should neaten out. And you should have a nice little border each side to make it look even.

Once your cloth has reached the desired size, fasten off and weave in ends. Your dishcloth is now ready to use.

Pattern

Chain 41

Row 1

1tr in 3rd chain from hook, and 1tr into each stitch along (39 trebles plus chain)
Chain 1, turn

Row 2

1tr, (FPtr, 1tr, 1tr) x 12, FPtr, 1tr
Chain 1, turn.

Row 3

1tr, 1tr, (FPtr, FPtr, 1tr) x 12, 1 tr
Chain 1, turn.

Row 4 – 20

Repeat rows 2 & 3 until you reach desired size.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

I think this is a link to download the PDF – try it!

https://www.ravelry.com/dls/hookandmarvellous/445958?filename=DishclothPDF.pdf

Heart Coaster

To make the hearts look like a bit more of a finished product, I decided to add an edge to them – a very simple edge of double crochet, but still, I thought I would write a quick tutorial on how to do it.

Take your completed heart and select a new colour (a contrasting one preferably).

You are going to be joining your yarn here in between the two bumps of the heart.

So attach your yarn, like this

Then chain up 1

And then you are going to work 1 double crochet (single crochet in US) into each stitch until you reach the bottom (20dc)

Then in the next 2 stitches (which should be the double trebles from the previous round) you are going to work 2 dc into each.  This is to make sure the pointy bit of the heart stays pointy.

Then work 1 dc into the next 20 stitches and you should end up back at the top, like this

As you can see, we are not quite back to the beginning, and instead of trying to work double crochets into that ch2 from the last round, we are just going to chain 2 and then slip stitch back into your starting point.

It’s quite hard to show on a photo but this is the beginning of my slip stitch, I am just about to pull a loop through from the back of the work.

I sometimes find ending on a chain a bit messy, so in order for this chain to look neat I turn my work upside down like this before I finish off the slip stitch.

Then the chain tends to sit in the right direction and your work looks more fluid.  Then you just take the tails and sew them in securely.  And it should end up looking like this.

If you have used nice thick chunky yarn, these will be big enough to be used as coasters.

If you don’t fancy the coasters, how about some delicate hanging decorations like these.

Instead of fastening off after your final slip stitch – chain up about 20-25 chains and then slip stitch back into the same space and fasten off, and you will have a cute little decoration.

For the original heart pattern, follow this link here.

Easy Crochet Heart

 

 

 

Easy Crochet Heart

I’ve been wanting to create my own heart pattern for ages, but never thought I could.  Anyway, I found a really easy pattern for a small heart, which is here on Ravelry by a lady known as Crochet Leaf –

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/basic-crochet-heart

And it was lovely, so quick to make and looks like this:

 

 

However, I wanted a bigger more chunky heart, so I decided to attempt my own pattern, and the result was this:

So if you like the look of that, please read on!

For this pattern you can use any size hook or yarn, but I found that a smaller hook than you would normally use for a particular weight of yarn makes a more compact finished product, with less gaps in your work (I don’t like gaps).

Firstly I will write a photo tutorial, then the basic pattern will be at the bottom of this page (in UK and US terms).

I am going to write the pattern in UK terms, because I’m from the UK!  But I am used to using US terms, so if anything doesn’t make sense, please let me know because I may have made an accidental mistake somewhere.

Stitches Used are

Magic ring

Chain (ch)

Half Treble Crochet (htr)

Treble Crochet (tr)

Double Treble Crochet (dtr)

Slip Stitch (ss)

 

Tutorial

Start with a magic ring. If you don’t know how to do a magic ring there is a handy video here:

 

So, magic ring

Chain 2 (does not count as a stitch)

Round 1

For the first round you are just going to work 12 treble crochets (tr) into the ring, and pull it tight.  Then slip stitch to the first treble to join and make the circle complete.

Here you can see my first round before I’ve slip stitched to close it – sometimes it is easier to use a stitch marker so you know which stitch you should be joining to.

And there is the first round complete.

Round 2

The second round is an increasing round, so you first need to chain up 1 (does not count as a stitch – I should just point out here that I don’t like using chains to replace stitches, so with a simple chain 1 it just gives you a little bit more leverage to work an actual treble crochet into the first stitch, instead of chaining 2 to replace the treble).

So…

Chain 1, then work 2 treble crochets into that same stitch, and into each stitch around.

Here you can see my first 2 clusters of trebles.

At the end you should have 24 treble crochets (12 clusters of 2)

Join with a SS to the first treble of the round.

Round 3

This is the final round (WOW already)

Chain 2 and work 1 treble crochet into that same stitch.

Into the next stitch you are going to work 3 double treble crochets (dtr). And the same into the next stitch.

Then in the following stitch you are going to work 2 dtr.

Now you can see the bump of the heart beginning to take shape.

In the next stitch work 3 tr.

In the next work 1 tr and 1 htr (both in the same stitch).

In the next 5 stitches work 1 htr.

Now you are at the bottom of the heart, so in the next stitch work 1 tr and 1 dtr.

And in the following stitch work 1 dtr and 1 tr.

It should look like this so far.

So now we are going to go back up the other side of the heart, so you are basically doing the above but in reverse.

First work 1 htr into the next 5 stitches.

Then in the next stitch work 1 htr and 1 tr.

Then 3 tr into the next.

Then 2 dtr into the next, 3 dtr into the next and 3 dtr into the next.

You now should have 1 stitch left, and into this you can work 1 treble crochet.

Now you need to chain up 2 and slip stitch this chain into the bottom of that same stitch to join and finish off.

Then fasten off, and weave in ends.  I have found that sometimes that final stitch can look a bit messy, like this:

So if you make sure that when you weave in the ends you tighten it all up and just generally try and close any gaps – it improves the overall appearance of the finished heart.

Your complete heart should look like this:

These look good in any size or colour, see my variations below.

Follow this link here for a quick tutorial on how to edge these hearts and turn them into coasters or hanging decorations

http://hookandmarvellous.com/heart-coaster/

 

If you don’t need the photo tutorial above, here is the basic pattern for the heart.

 

Easy Crochet Heart Pattern (UK Version)

Magic ring, Ch 2

Round 1

12 tr into ring.

SS to 1st tr to join.

Round 2

Ch 1

2 tr into each stitch around (24 tr)

SS to 1st tr to join.

Round 3

Ch 2

1 tr into same stitch

3 dtr, 3 dtr, 2 dtr, 3 tr, (1tr, 1htr), 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, (1 tr, 1 dtr), (1 dtr, 1 tr), 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, (1 htr, 1 tr), 3 tr, 2 dtr, 3 dtr, 3 dtr

1 tr into final stitch, Ch 2 and slip stitch into same stitch to finish off.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

 

*****************************************

Easy Crochet Heart Pattern (US Version)

Magic ring, Ch 2

Round 1

12 dc into ring.

SS to 1st dc to join.

Round 2

Ch 1

2 dc into each stitch around (24 dc)

SS to 1st dc to join.

Round 3

Ch 2

1 dc into same stitch

3 tr, 3 tr, 2 tr, 3 dc, (1dc, 1hdc), 1 hdc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc, (1 dc, 1 tr), (1 tr, 1 dc), 1 hdc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc, (1 hdc, 1 dc), 3 dc, 2 tr, 3 tr, 3 tr

1 tr into final stitch, Ch 2 and slip stitch into same stitch to finish off.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

 

 

Easy Santa Hat (same as slouchy hat but with extra rows)

Slouchy Santa Hat – Kids age 8 to Adult

 

 

The pattern for the Santa hat is much the same as the slouchy hat  but with extra rows to create the pixie hat type effect – and of course you will need red and white yarn!

I used Boyes Great Value Double Knitting, which is just over £2 a ball – and I used less than a full ball of red, and only a small amount of the white – so it’s very budget friendly.

***IF YOU NEED DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE STITCHES AND A PHOTO TUTORIAL I SUGGEST YOU LOOK AT THE SLOUCHY HAT PATTERN FIRST, WHICH CAN BE FOUND HERE***

http://hookandmarvellous.com/slouchy-ribbed-hat-pattern-2-sizes/ 

This pattern is written in UK Terms and the stitches used are as follows

Chain, Slip Stitch, Double Crochet, Treble Crochet, Front Post Treble Crochet (explained in Slouchy Hat Tutorial – link above)

So, here we go…

Using hook size 5.00mm and RED YARN.

Make a Magic Ring
Chain 2

Round 1

15 treble crochet into ring
Slip Stitch into 1st stitch to join.

Round 2

Ch 1
15 FPtr
SS to join

Round 3 – 6

Ch 1
FPtr, tr, Fptr, tr – repeat all the way around
SS to join

Round 7

Ch 1
FPtr, tr, tr, FPtr, tr, tr…repeat all the way around
SS to join

Round 8 – 15

Ch 1
FPtr, 2 tr into space between trebles of previous round, FPtr, 2tr…repeat all the way around
SS to join

Round 16

Ch 1
FPtr, 3 tr (into space between 2 trebles of previous round), FPtr, 3 tr…repeat all the way around
SS to join

Round 17

Ch 1
FPtr, 2 tr into 1st space in between trebles, 1 tr into 2nd space in between trebles, FPtr, 2 tr, 1tr…repeat all the way around
SS to join

Round 18

Ch 1
FPtr, 1 tr, 2tr, FPtr, 1 tr, 2 tr…repeat all the way around.
SS to join

Round 19

Repeat Round 17

Round 20

Repeat Round 18

Round 21

Repeat Round 17

Round 22

Repeat Round 18

Round 23 – 31

Ch 1
FPtr, 2 tr (in between 1st 2 trebles of previous round), 2 tr (in between 2nd 2 trebles of previous round), FPtr, 2tr, 2tr…repeat all the way around
SS to join

Round 32 – CHANGE HOOK TO 4.00MM and change to white yarn.

Ch 1
1 dc into each stitch around
SS to join

Round 33

Ch 1
1 tr all the way around
SS to join

Round 34 – 36 (you can add more rows here if you want a wider brim)

Ch 1, FPtr, 1 tr into top of next stitch, FPtr, 1 tr into top of next stitch…repeat all the way around.

Round 37 

Ch 1, 1 dc into each stitch around, join with SS.

 

Fasten off, weave in ends – attach a MASSIVE WHITE pompom if required.

And there you have it – a crochet santa hat.

Slouchy Ribbed Hat Pattern – 2 Sizes

Slouchy Ribbed Hat (or not so slouchy if you like) Crochet Pattern

**Please don’t pay attention to the colourways in the photos – I was just using random colours left in my stash – if you want a nice uniform stripe, then I’ve reminded you every second round to change colour**

 

You will need:
 
4 colours of yarn (I used Stylecraft Double Knitting)
2 crochet hooks – 5.00mm and 4.00mm
Yarn needle
Scissors
Stitch marker (if required)
Stitches Used (UK Terms)
 
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (ss)
Double Crochet (dc)
Treble Crochet (tr)
Front Post Treble Crochet (FPtr) – this stitch is not as complicated as it sounds, I will include a description of the stitch, plus photos to explain further how it works.
 
This pattern is worked in the round and has a steady increase as you work your way down the hat – depending on how slouchy you want the hat to be, you will need to decide how many extra rows in the initial stages you would like to include.
Pattern (Toddler size – age 2 – 4 approximately)
 
This photo shows a 3 year old wearing it
 
 
Using the 5.00mm hook
Make a magic ring and chain 2
Round 1
14 treble crochet (tr) into ring.
Slip stitch (ss) into first treble to join.
Round 2
 
Chain (ch) 1
Front post treble crochet (FPtr) around each treble crochet of previous round.
**To work an FPtr you are ignoring the tops of the trebles, and are working around the POST of the trebles**
 
  1. You need to wrap your yarn over the hook (the first part of working a treble)
  2. Then insert the hook from the front of your work into the gap to the right hand side of the treble you are working around (1st treble from round 1 in this instance )and then out of the the left hand side of the treble.  So your hook is effectively sat behind the treble.
  3. Wrap the yarn over the hook again, and pull your hook back through from behind the stitch (the yarn will now be going under the stitch).
  4. And complete the treble in the normal way by wrapping the yarn around the hook, pull through the 1st 2 loops, yarn over again and pull through the last 2 loops.
You need to insert your hook through this part here (where my needle is)
 


Your stitches should look like this

At the end of this round you should have 14 FPtr
Slip stitch into the first FPtr to join the round.
Round 3
Ch 1
Work 1 FPtr around the first FPtr. (see where my needle is?)
 


Then work 1 treble into the space between the FPtr (where my needle is pointing)
 

Then work another FPtr around the FPtr
And again another treble in between the FPtr.
Your work should look like this, with one final treble to work, before joining the round.  You can see the ribbing starting to form.
 

So continue the pattern like this…FPtr, tr, FPtr, tr…until you get back to the beginning and slip stitch into the first stitch to join the round. (If you are doing a stripy hat, then I would recommend your first colour change here, before you start round 4.  I find the best way to change colour is to use your new yarn to slip stitch when you join the round, and then the join is seamless –  I also tie the tail ends together for extra security, before weaving in the ends)
At the end of this round you should have 14 FPtr and 14 tr
Round 4
Ch 1
Work the same as round 3 – FPtr, tr, FPtr, tr…until you reach the end. 
Slip stitch to join.
Round 5
Ch1
Work the same as round 3 – FPtr, tr, FPtr, tr…until you reach the end.
Slip stitch to join (with new colour)
 
 
***you can add more duplicate rounds like this if you want your hat to be more slouchy***
 
Round 6
 
We are going to increase this round by adding an extra treble in each section, so…
 
Ch1, FPtr
Then you need to work 1 treble in the space before the treble of the last round and 1 treble in the space afterwards.  As you can see in the photos, I have shown you where I have worked the trebles, and then the next two photos I’ve shown you with my needle where you need to be putting the trebles.


Then work another FPtr.
So the pattern goes like this…
FPtr, tr, tr, FPtr, tr, tr, FPtr, tr, tr…until you reach the end.
Slip stitch to join.
(you should have 14 FPtr and 28 tr at the end of this round)
Round 7
Ch 1, FPtr,
Then work 2 trebles in between the 2 tr of the previous round.
 



 
Then another FPtr, and 2 trebles between the 2 tr of the previous round.
Continue like this to the end.
Slip stitch with new colour to join the round
Round 8
We are going to increase this round by adding 1 treble to each section, so now there will be 3 trebles in between the FPtr.
Ch 1, FPtr, work 3 tr between the 2 trebles from the previous round (so this is basically the same as round 7 but you are working 3 trebles instead of 2)
FPtr, 3 tr, FPtr, 3 tr….continue to the end of the round.
Slip stitch to join
(14 FPtr and 42 tr)
Round 9
Ch 1, FPtr, work 2 tr into space between 1st 2 trebles, and 1 tr into next space between trebles.
Here you can see I have already worked the first 2 trebles, and my needle is showing you where you put the single treble.
 


 
FPtr, 2 tr, 1 tr, FPtr, 2 tr, 1 tr…continue to the end of the round
Slip stitch new colour to join round.
Round 10
Ch 1, FPtr, work 1 tr into 1st space between trebles, and work 2 tr into next space between trebles.
 


 
FPtr, 1 tr, 2 tr, FPtr, 1 tr, 2 tr…continue to the end of the round.
Slip stitch to join
Round 11
 
Work exactly as round 9 including the colour change
Round 12
Once again we are adding an extra treble into this round, so we will be working 4 trebles between the FPtr, instead of 3.
Ch 1, FPtr, 2 tr in 1st space between trebles, and 2 tr in next space between trebles.
 

FPtr, 2 tr, 2 tr, FPtr, 2 tr, 2tr…continue to the end of the round
Slip stitch to join.
(14 FPtr and 56 tr)
Round 13
Ch 1, FPtr, work 2 tr in between 1st two trebles, and work 2 tr in between last 2 trebles.
 

FPtr, 2 tr, 2 tr, FPtr, 2 tr, 2 tr…continue to the end of the round
Slip stitch to join with new colour
Rounds 14 – 20
Work as round 13, changing colour at the end of rounds 15 and 17.
Round 21
Change hook to 4.00mm
Ch 1, work 1 double crochet into each stitch around.
Slip stitch to first stitch to join.
Round 22
Ch 1, work 1 treble crochet into each stitch around.
Here you can see my row of double crochet and then treble crochet.
 

Slip stitch to join round with new colour.
Round 23
Ch 1, FPtr, work 1 tr into top of next stitch, FPtr, work 1 tr into top of next stitch, Fptr, work 1 tr into top of next stitch…continue all the way around.
 

Slip stitch to join with new colour.
Round 24
Ch 1, FPtr, 1 tr, FPtr, 1 tr, FPtr, 1 tr….continue all the way around.
Slip stitch to join round.
Round 25
Repeat round 24.
Fasten off…weave in ends…attach pompom if required.
Pattern For Older Kids and Adults
This photo shows my 10 year old wearing it, but it also fits me!
The pattern for a larger hat is much the same as that above, but you are starting with 15 treble crochet in the ring, and you are adding extra rounds to create more of a slouch.  I haven’t included any instructions for when to change colour – it’s up to you when you change but I would recommend changing every 2 or 3 rows to give a nice chunky stripe effect.
 
Using hook 5.00mm
 
Magic Ring
Chain 2
Round 1
 
Ch 1
15 treble crochet into ring
Slip Stitch into 1st stitch to join.
 
Round 2
 
Ch 1
15 FRtr
SS to join
Round 3 – 6
 
Ch 1
FPtr, tr, Fptr, tr – repeat all the way around
SS to join
Round 7
 
Ch 1
FPtr, tr, tr, FPtr, tr, tr…repeat all the way around
SS to join
Round 8 – 9
 
Ch 1
FPtr, 2 tr into space between trebles of previous round, FPtr, 2tr…repeat all the way around
SS to join
Round 10
 
Ch 1
FPtr, 3 tr, FPtr, 3 tr…repeat all the way around
SS to join
Round 11
 
Ch 1
FPtr, 2 tr into 1st space in trebles, 1 tr into 2nd space in trebles, FPtr…repeat all the way around
SS to join
Round 12
 
Ch 1
FPtr, 1 tr, 2tr, FPtr, 1 tr, 2 tr…repeat all the way around.
SS to join
Round 13
 
Repeat Round 11
Round 14
 
Repeat Round 12
Round 15
 
Repeat Round 11
Round 16
 
Repeat Round 12
Round 17 – 26
 
Ch 1
FPtr, 2 tr in between 1st 2 trebles, 2 tr in between 2nd 2 trebles, FPtr, 2tr, 2tr…repeat all the way around
SS to join
Round 27 – CHANGE HOOK TO 4.00MM
 
Ch 1
1 dc into each stitch around
SS to joint
 
Round 28
 
Ch 1
1 tr all the way around
SS to join
 
Round 29 – 33
 
FPtr, 1 tr into top of next stitch, FPtr, 1 tr into top of next stitch…repeat all the way around.
 
Fasten off, weave in ends – attach pompom if required.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Spiral Bauble Pattern Tutorial

Spiral Crochet Bauble

Apologies in advance for the poor quality photos – they were taken on my phone, and I really wish I’d taken more time and used my camera.  Anyway, hindsight is a wonderful thing!

I’ve uploaded this as a free downloadable PDF pattern on Ravelry, but I thought I may as well add it on here too.

For this decoration you will need:

Small Christmas bauble (20cm circumference)

3.5mm crochet hook

Stitch marker

2 colours of yarn

Needle

UK Stitches used: chain, slip stitch, double crochet.

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds, and can be quite complex especially in the beginning; round 3 is quite mind-boggling. But once you get past that, everything falls into place.

Please be aware that you will be using two different colours of yarn and keeping them both attached until the end, so this can become quite fiddly, but it is possible to continue with the work without getting your yarns tangled. The colours I used were blue and pink; blue formed the main bulk of the bauble and the pink made up the spirals. It is also imperative that you use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round because you really need to know where you are at all times.

So let’s begin:

Blue yarn Chain 4, slip stitch into 1st chain to form a ring. Chain 1.

Round 1

10 dc into ring (don’t forget to place stitch marker in first dc)

Round 2

In this round you will be working 2dc into every stitch, so at the end you should have 20dc. However, it won’t be as simple as it sounds because we will be adding your second colour at various points along the way.

So the pattern goes like this:

2dc (blue,pink) 2dc (blue,blue) 2dc (blue,blue) 2dc (pink,blue) 2dc (blue,blue) 2dc (blue,pink) 2dc (blue,blue) 2dc (blue,blue) 2dc (pink,blue) 2dc (blue,blue)

The 4 pink stitches that you have added form the base of each spiral. When we move into round 3, this is when we start to develop the spirals.

Round 3

This round is a real stinker, it took me several attempts to get it right first time, it’s pretty confusing, but if you just follow the pattern you should get it spot on. Things only get easier after this.

For this round, you are crocheting 2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc alternatively into each stitch around and you should have 30dc at the end.

However, again, we are adding pink into the mix, and it feels random, but I promise you it’s not.

So the pattern goes like this (I’ve written it as a list so it’s a bit easier to follow):

2dc (blue blue)

1dc blue

2dc (pink pink)

1dc blue

2dc (blue blue)

1dc blue

2dc (blue blue)

1dc pink

2dc (pink blue)

1dc blue

2dc (blue blue)

1dc blue

2dc (pink pink)

1dc blue

2dc (blue blue)

1dc blue

2dc (blue blue)

1dc pink

2dc (pink blue)

1dc blue

Round 4

Now the rounds are easier because you are just working 1dc into each stitch around. So this round goes like this:

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc

Round 5

The sequence will change with each round, this is to form the spiral pattern but if you watch how it is worked, it’s not as confusing as the pattern looks.

So this round goes as follows:

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc

Pink 1dc, 1dc

Round 6

Blue 1dc x6

Pink 1dc x3

Blue 1dc x5

Pink 1dc X3

Blue 1dc x4

Pink 1dc X3

Blue 1dc x5

Pink 1dc

You should notice that your work is starting to curve now, into the beginnings of a bowl type shape, this is good, as it means it will fit nicely over the ball.

Round 7

Pink 1dc x2

Blue 1dc x5

Pink 1dc X3

Blue 1dc x5

Pink 1dc X3

Blue 1dc x4

Pink 1dc X3

Blue 1dc x5

Round 8

Pink 1dc x3

Blue 1dc x5

Pink 1dc x4

Blue 1dc x4

Pink 1dc x4

Blue 1dc x 3

Pink 1dc x4

Blue 1dc x3

Round 9

Blue 1dc

Pink 1dc x4

Blue 1dc x4

Pink 1dc x5

Blue 1dc X3

Pink 1dc x5

Blue 1dc x2

Pink 1dc x5

Blue 1dc

Round 10

Blue 1dc x2

Pink 1dc x5

Blue 1dc X3

Pink 1dc x6

Blue 1dc x2

Pink 1dc x6

Blue 1dc

Pink 1dc x5

Round 11

Pink 1dc x30

Slip stitch into first stitch and fasten off yarn, sew in ends. Repeat for other half of bauble, leaving a long tail for sewing the two halves together.

You should end up with something like this.

Crochet Bauble Madness

I’ve been busy crocheting Christmas baubles for my Etsy shop…here is a selection

 

I’ve also been attempting to write some patterns.  There is currently one for sale for just 60p on Ravelry which you can find here:

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/three-colour-star-bauble

It’s a PDF file with photos and detailed instructions, to make a very nice three coloured star decoration, very much like this one in the middle here:

And these:

My latest creation has a spiral affect and it actually gave me a headache trying to figure out the pattern, but I am on with writing it up now – it is actually really simple once you get your head around the dreadful Round 3, and looks really effective.  I’m going to try more colour combinations, once my head has cleared.

Anyway, that’s all for today.  Happy crocheting everyone!

 

Crochet Star Bauble Decoration – Pattern and Tutorial

**PLEASE NOTE THIS IS IN UK CROCHET TERMS**

 

I’ve just made myself a really pretty little star bauble, so wanted to share the pattern and tutorial.

 

For this decoration I used a DK yarn and a 3.00mm crochet hook.  But you can use any yarn and any size hook you like – it just depends on what size you want to end up with.

You will need two colours of yarn, and a stitch marker (very important!)

The stitches I used were double crochet and they are worked in a continuous round, 11 rounds in total.

The work is crocheted around a 20cm (circumference) existing Christmas Bauble.

Please note, once you are onto using both yarns – please untangle after each round, otherwise you will end up in a complete tangled mess!

Tutorial

Blue yarn

Chain 4

Slip Stitch into first chain to form a ring.

Round 1

Chain 1, 10dc into ring.

Here you can see I’ve done a couple of double crochets into the ring (where my needle is pointing) and I’ve also used a stitch marker to mark my very first stitch – this is very important so you don’t lose your way or do too many stitches in each round.

This shows I have done 10 dc into the ring and now I am up to my stitch marker, ready for the next round.  So remove the marker to start round 2.

Round 2

You need to work 2 double crochet into each stitch of round 1. Below you can see I have worked a couple of double crochets into the first stitch, and I have replaced my stitch marker.

At the end of the round you should have 20 double crochets – please count to make sure. It should look something like this.

Now you are ready to start round 3.

Round 3

Remove your stitch marker and crochet 2 double crochets into the first stitch.

Replace your stitch marker, and crochet 1 double crochet into the next stitch, then 2 double crochet into the next stitch, and 1 double crochet into the next stitch.  Carry on like this until you are back to your stitch marker.

You should have 30 double crochet – count to make sure!

The next round involves adding your next colour, so it could get complicated – but it really is quite simple, as long as you don’t get your yarn tangled.

Round 4

You are now going to add in the pink yarn (DO NOT fasten off your blue yarn)

Pull through a loop of the pink yarn and work 1dc into the first stitch.

Replace stitch marker.

Then back to your blue yarn, work 1dc into the next 5 stitches.

If you think about it, the complete round is a total of 30 double crochet – and I have split it into 5 blocks of 6. So you are working 1 pink and 5 blue double crochets, in 5 sections, and this is the beginning of creating the points of the star.

So the pattern should look something like this

Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc, Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc, Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc, Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc, Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc.

Don’t forget your stitch marker!

Round 5

If you find your yarn starts to tangle at the end of each round, please make sure you untangle it as you go along, otherwise you will get yourself into a right pickle.

So this round, we are increasing the pink by 1 stitch, and decreasing the blue by one stitch.

So you need to work 2 pink double crochets, and 4 blue double crochets – and repeat this pattern 5 times.

(Pink 1dc 1dc, Blue 1dc 1dc 1dc 1dc) (repeat 5 times)

Stitch marker!

Round 6

Work 3 pink double crochets and 3 blue double crochets.

(Pink 1dc 1dc 1dc, Blue 1dc 1dc 1dc) (repeat 5 times)

You can now see the shape of the star starting to form.

Remember to untangle your yarn, and remember to replace your stitch marker.

Each round should still have 30 double crochet.

Round 7

Work 4 pink double crochet and 2 blue double crochets – repeat 5 times.

Round 8

Work 5 pink double crochet and 1 blue double crochet (repeat 5 times)

Round 9 – 11

You have now finished your star shape and can fasten off the blue (at last – no more tangles!)

Now you just need to crochet 3 rounds of double crochet.  So basically, 1 double crochet into each stitch for the next 3 rounds.

Slip stitch to first stitch of last round – fasten off both yarns and weave in ends.

The inside of your work will probably look like this, but that’s okay because nobody sees the inside.

 

Repeat for the other half of the bauble, leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Here are my two halves waiting to go onto the bauble.

If it looks like they are a bit small, don’t worry, crochet can stretch and this will ensure it has a nice snug fit around the bauble.

So take your needle and just run a stitch through the top loops of the work and it will make a nice neat join.

Once you get all the way around, ensure you over stitch a little bit and weave the end in so that it is secure.

 

And there you are, your finished star bauble.

 

Pattern.

Blue Yarn

Chain 4.

Join with a slip stitch to form a ring

Round 1

Ch1, 10dc into ring

Round 2

2dc into each stitch around (20dc)

Round 3

2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc (repeat) (30dc)

Round 4

Join pink yarn (do not fasten off blue yarn)

Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc.

Round 5

Pink 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc,Pink 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc.

Round 6

Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, 1dc.

Round 7

Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, 1dc.

Round 8

Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc,  Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc, Pink 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, Blue 1dc.

Fasten off blue yarn.

Rounds 9 – 11

Pink 1dc 30 times.

Fasten off pink, sew in ends.

Repeat for other half, leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Sew over bauble.

Here is a link to a pattern of the more complex version of this decoration, available to buy on Ravelry for just 60p

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/three-colour-star-bauble

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Sparkly Yarn

I’m just testing my updating post skills really, and I’m wondering where this post will end up. So here goes…

I was in my local Aldi yesterday and they must be having a craft extravaganza because they had all different types of yarn, craft boxes, fat quarter packs – I could have bought all of it.  However, the thing that really did catch my eye was this:

Some sparkly yarn!   And because I am trying to stock my new Etsy shop with Christmas things I couldn’t resist.  Priced at £2.99 per pack (there’s actually four in a pack not three – I’ve already used a couple of balls to create some sparkly baubles).

See –

I was worried that the sparkly bits running through the yarn would make it difficult to work with, but in fact it made no difference at all.  The only issue I had was when I was sewing in the ends, my needle sometimes caught a loose thread.

Anyway, get yourselves down to Aldi for some fancy yarn.

 

Easy Crochet Bauble Tutorial

**PLEASE NOTE THIS IS IN UK CROCHET TERMS**

 

I’m hoping this tutorial (with lots of pictures) will help some of you novice crochets out there.  I wanted to make baubles for a long time but just could not get the increase right, or the shape right, or in fact anything right!  And it took me a while to become confident in creating the perfect crochet bauble, but I think I have it now!

The tutorial below is not for the simplest one I have made, but I think it’s my favourite (so far) there is an easier variation which I will attempt to add in at the end.  You should end up with something like this:

First of all you need to select your yarn, colours, and hook size.

For baubles I prefer to use colours that contrast with each other because I think it gives them a more eye catching look, but you might prefer to use ones than harmonise with each other – its entirely up to you.  But it is best to use colours from the same type of yarn, otherwise it won’t work up properly.

Here I have used a cotton yarn called Drops Muskat, which I think is a bit thicker than DK (double knitting) and a lot harder to work with – I recommend using something soft like acrylic yarn, especially if you are just starting out.  Otherwise, a softer cotton yarn will do the trick – I think cotton yarns do look better on the finished product.  Anyway – it’s up to you what kind of yarn you use.

I have also chosen to use a 3.5 hook because this will keep the stitches nice and tight.

One more thing to point out before I start – when I first started making crochet baubles I was just making them any size and hoping for the best, then using polyester stuffing to fill them with.  And they do look lovely.  However, since I have become more talented in this area, I have been crocheted them to fit around an 8cm polyester ball, and the finished look is so much more satisfying!  So this pattern is designed around that kind of size.  I’ve noticed some crocheters design theirs around plastic Christmas baubles – which is also a great idea and a great way to revamp old decorations.  It all depends on how confident you are in achieving a specific size in the finished product.  Stuffing an odd sized crochet bauble with polyester is always an option for those balls that don’t turn out quite the right size.

(Basically a bigger hook and thicker yarn will make a bigger bauble – smaller hook, smaller yarn – smaller bauble)

Anyway, I digress…

 

And now for the pattern. (I will tag on the end of all this just the actual pattern for those of us who don’t need all these photos!)

 

Stitches used:

Slip stitch

Chain

Double Crochet

Treble Crochet

Spike Stitch (Basically a long double crochet).

 

First of all you need to make a slip not on your hook, as pictured here:

And then a starting chain of 4.

Then, you need to join with a slip stitch into the first chain (where my needle is on the photo).  This will form a ring into which you will be crocheting your first round of stitches.

First you need to chain 2 (or chain 3 depending on how you will join your round – if you join your round at the end with a slip stitch into the top of your starting chain then you will probably need 3 chains – however I have discovered a new joining method which is a lot neater).  This chain counts as your first stitch.

Now it is time to start your round – you will need to crochet 11 trebles into the centre of the ring – and this will mean you have 12 stitches including your starting chain.

As you can see here I have done one treble into the middle of the ring I made with the initial 4 chain.  Each stitch in this round needs to be crocheted into the same place.  It can be quite fiddly at first – but it only gets easier from here.

The ring is starting to take shape.

Now I have done 11 trebles into the ring and it is time to join the round to form the first circle.  A lot of tutorials tell you to join the round by slip stitching into the top of your starting chain, (and you are welcome to do this here if that’s what you are comfortable with).  However I have always thought this looked messy and will now show you a much neater way to do it.

First you have to cut your yarn (leaving enough tail for sewing in) and then pull the yarn through the stitch – as I have started to do above.  And then, thread your needle and insert your needle through the FIRST treble of the round (NOT THE CHAIN) – like this.

and pull it through gently

and then, thread your needle through the middle of your very last treble like this

Gently pull it through and you can see below it is already forming the shape of the top of a stitch.  Now keep pulling until the loop is the same size as all of your other stitches – be careful not to let your starting chain poke up through the middle.  Sometimes you might need to waggle the whole thing around a bit to get it to sit properly.

Then you can thread your needle through the back of a few stitches to secure the yarn in place, like this.  I also like to sew in the other loose end too, so there will be no need to go back to it at the end.

And there you have it – a complete first round – if you have made it this far, well done!

Time for round 2!

Choose your next colour.  I have chosen yellow – a nice contrast to the pink.

When I join a new yarn, I like to start with a slip stitch on the hook – just to add a bit of extra security.

Now you need to join your yarn to any space IN BETWEEN trebles – like this.  Chain 2 (or 3 depending on your joining preference at the end of the round)

Then crochet another treble into the SAME SPACE.  This is where we are increasing the round by 2 stitches to each stitch from the first round – so where the first round had a total of 12 stitches – this second round should end up with 24 stitches.  So you need to crochet 2 trebles into each space between stitches – as you can see here, and continue until you have 24 trebles (including the initial starting chain)

And I will show you again how I like to join the round.  Cut your yarn, pull through stitch.

Thread your needle, insert needle through top of first treble.

and back through the top of your final treble

bring the needle through the back of a few stitches to secure the yarn in place.

Your join should look like this.

Finished round 2 – well done!

Round 3

Select your next colour and join between two clusters of trebles

Chain 2 (again or you can chain 3 depending on how you join the end of the round) Then you will need to crochet 2 trebles into the same space – and this will form a cluster of 3 stitches.  Then work 3 trebles into each space around – resulting in 36 stitches in the complete round.

Join the round as you prefer, fasten off yarn and sew in ends.

Round 4

Join new yarn to any space between clusters.

Chain 2 (or chain3)

Crochet 2 trebles into same space.

Then crochet 3 trebles into each space around (36 stitches in total).

 

As you can see, my work is starting to curve, which is exactly what we want as it will fit the shape of the ball easily.

Join, fasten off, weave in ends.

Round 5.

This round is a little different to the rest.  This one involves crocheting your stitches into the stitch rather than in between them.  Here I have inserted my needle where you need to be inserting your hook and this is where the first stitch needs to be.

So, join your yarn and chain 2.

1 treble into each stitch around

At the end of the round you should have 36 stitches.  Join the round as I have shown you previously.  Fasten off, weave in ends.

As you can see here the work is really starting to take shape, and don’t worry if it looks too small to fit around your desired ball – the good thing about crochet is that it stretches.

Here is mine sat on top of the ball it will be wrapped around when finished.

Round 6 – 8

The next three rounds will be worked continuously (i.e. no fastening off in between each round)

Select new yarn. Join in any stitch. Chain 1.

Work 1 double crochet into each stitch around.

When you get to the final stitch –  instead of joining…

work 1 double crochet into the chain 1 you did at the beginning.

Then work 1 double crochet into each stitch around.

Keep your eye on your stitches and when you are back at the beginning once again, you should be able to seamlessly carry on and crochet round 8 – another round of double crochets.

When you are nearing the end of the third round of double crochets – you should be able to work out where you are by looking inside your work and finding your initial stitch – can you see on mine where the tail is?

So it is above this stitch where you need to make your final join (either with a slip stitch or how I have shown you previously). Fasten off, weave in ends.

Your bauble should really be starting to take shape now, and should stretch nicely over an 8cm ball.

Round 9.

This probably seems like the most tricky round of the bauble, but it’s really quite simple once you get the hang of it.  This round will consist of double crochet and spike stitches.

So, join your new yarn.

Chain 1

1 double crochet into the next stitch.

Then for the next stitch you will do the spike stitch, which is worked exactly the same as a double crochet stitch, only you put your hook into a space 2 rows below. As you can see in the photo below.

And then you pull the yarn up to the top and continue the stitch as normal.

And then its 1 double crochet into the next stitch.  And where you see my needle is where you need to do the next spike stitch.

And slowly you should see the pattern start to emerge.  Work another double crochet into the next stitch, and where my needle is pointing, is where you put the next spike stitch.

So carry on 1 dc, 1 spike stitch, 1 dc and it should look something like this.

When you are back at the beginning you need to work one last spike stitch, so they are all evenly spaced.

See where my needle is?  This is where the last spike stitch needs to be.

Do not fasten off.

Round 10

Work 1 double crochet into the chain 1 from the beginning, and work 1 double crochet into each stitch around.

 

Finally, when you are back at the beginning join to the first double crochet of the second round.  Fasten off, weave in ends.

And you have now finished one half of your bauble.  Next, do it all again – exactly the same, only this time when it comes to fastening off, make sure you leave a long tail to sew the two sides together.

Here I have put my two halves onto my ball – and as you can see the sides don’t quite meet, but this is nothing to worry about because crochet is quite stretchy and this ensures that when you sew it together you will have a nice snug fit.

When I sew my sides together I use the front loops of the stitches – as you can see where my needle is here.

Thread it through the two front loops on both sides and just keep on doing this all the way round – it should end up quite a neat row of stitches if you keep it tight.

Once you have finished, you need to weave in the tail tightly and fasten off – or alternatively you can use the extra length and turn it into a hanging loop.  However, I prefer to use purpose built metal hooks (or if you are crocheting around an actual bauble, you will already have the hanging gear)

Your finished bauble should look something like this!

Please let me know how you get on with this pattern and if there are any parts which are not clear or just don’t make any sense.

I will now write a basic pattern for those of you who don’t need the step by step photos (and it also has an alternative ending).

Crochet Christmas Bauble Pattern

Chain 4, Slip Stitch into 1st chain to form a loop.

Round 1

Chain 2, 11 treble crochet into ring. (counts as 12 trebles)

Join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Round 2

Join yarn into any space between treble crochets.

Chain 2, 1 treble crochet into same space.

2 treble crochets into each space around. (counts as 24 trebles)

Join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Round 3

Join new yarn into any space between 2 treble crochet clusters.

Chain 2, 2 treble crochets into same space.

3 treble crochets into each space around. (counts as 36 trebles)

Join round, fasten off, weave in ends.

Round 4

Join new yarn into any space between 3 treble crochet clusters.

Chain 2, 2 treble crochets into same space.

3 treble crochets into each space around. (counts as 36 trebles)

Join round, fasten off, weave in ends.

Round 5

Join new yarn into any treble stitch (not between clusters).

Chain 2, 1 treble crochet into each stitch around.

Join round, fasten off, weave in ends.

Round 6 – 8

Join new yarn into any treble crochet stitch.

Chain 1, 1 double crochet into each stitch around – do this for three rounds.

Join, fasten off, weave in ends.

Round 9

Join new yarn into any double crochet stitch.

Chain 1, 1 dc, 1 spike stitch (double crochet into a space 2 rows below) 1 dc, 1 spike stitch. Continue around until you complete the round.

Do not fasten off.

Round 10

1 double crochet into each stitch around.

Join round, fasten off, weave in ends.

Repeat again for the other half but leave a long tail for sewing both halves together.

 

Alternative (Easier) Ending to make this bauble:

Follow the pattern as above up to Round 4

ROUNDS 5 – 7 (repeat round 4)

ROUND 8 – Join new yarn to any stitch (not between clusters) and chain 2.  1 treble crochet into each stitch around.  Join, fasten off.  Repeat for other half. Finished.

 

Thanks for reading, hope it’s helpful.